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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.